When is a sock not a sock – and a boot not a boot? When they are amalgamated into a “sock-boot”, a hybrid shoe that transforms a creature comfort into an item for legitimate wear beyond the home.
Matthieu Blazy proposed divisive pairs at Bottega Veneta’s autumn/winter 2023 show, crafted from woven cable-knit-esque leather, with an extremely flat sole that made them difficult to discern (heeled versions, as seen on Kendall Jenner, were eventually put into production). Their debut came when fashion reflected lockdown attire and easy dressing was front and centre – The Row’s equally discordant hotel slippers followed several months later – but in 2025, the vibe of sock-boots are less sock, more substance.
Compared to regular boots, slip-on styles from The Row, made from paper-thin leather or mesh, or Khaite’s low-heeled Apollos, aren’t nearly as practical, so it’s best to think of sock-boots as the pumps of the boot world. Like ballerinas, they’re not a sensible choice for inclement weather, and they won’t keep you warm. But there’s something directional and nonchalant about sock-boots; they exude a mood that’s kind of chill and elegant all at once. And given their supple construction and close fit to the foot and ankle, they’re also very comfortable. It’s easy to see the appeal.
There are many reasons why Balenciaga’s razored Knife boots, made from stretchy technical fabric, first seen in Demna’s inaugural autumn/winter 2016 collection for the house, remain a favourite shoe among the fashion set. Committed wearers have even dared the outré “pantaleggings”, which lengthen the upper to a full trouser. And while they aren’t as ubiquitous as they were upon their release – which prompted a mainstream sock-boot trend – the Knife boots have established a sturdy footprint for the modern sock boot. Peddled out by countless celebrities and the street-style set, they’re one of the most recognisable designer shoes of the decade.
If you want to lean heavily into the sock appeal, though, then flat styles are the answer. The real question is, how “sock like” do you want them to feel? This is down to the cut and the way they grip to your leg/calf – and with styles of varying heights and finishes in the mainstream market right now, there’s plenty to choose from.
