If you have a desire to invest in rain gear right now – be it for staving off showers on a city commute or for a hardcore four-day hike – there are many, many options to choose from. Multiple factors can be attributed to this saturated (ehem) landscape, including, but not limited to: the post-pandemic obsession with outdoor activities, and subsequently the adoption of “Gorpcore” into mainstream styling; a series of outdoorsy collaborations – Arc’Teryx and Jil Sander, Palace and Off-White, and Gucci X North Face, come to mind – and the fact that parkas, anoraks and mackintoshes have appeared on recent runways.
Trench coats have long played a pivotal role in the modern wardrobe, but, despite the fact they were originally marketed as functional outerwear, these days their mass appeal lies more in their looks than any weather-faring traits. A quick scroll online reveals a variety of trenches rendered in leathers and non-waterproof fabrications, which are far from the gabardine styles introduced by Burberry over a century ago. Still, you’ll see trench coats in abundance at international fashion weeks, but the smartest attendees layer their covetable wares under technical jackets from both specialist brands and labels that have tapped into the high-tech hype.
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When it comes to waterproof wares, it’s a bit of a Venn diagram. There are the technical brands that design for a demographic who require quality outerwear for purely practical purposes – however, brands are finding that the same styles are also inadvertently attracting consumers who simply enjoy the utilitarian aesthetic. Arc’Teryx is a prime example. “There’s an inherent appeal in having the best of anything,” Arc’Teryx CEO, Stuart Haselden, told Vogue Business at the end of last year. “We believe that the construction, the fabrication, the designs that we create are – technically – the very best.”
Danish label Rains, which released its first product inspired by a traditional rubber raincoat in 2012, is another. “We’ve grown alongside the Gorpcore trend, but we don’t depend on it,” head of design, Johanne Dindler, tells British Vogue. “It’s hard to say if the trend has specifically affected sales, but more people are paying attention to technical function as part of the outerwear or accessories they choose. Because we design for urban demands, where aesthetic and performance must be thought of equally, we definitely tap into that. This balance means our styles attract people who are true outdoor enthusiasts and [those who] aren’t.”
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Then there are the technical labels that have intentionally ridden the wave. 66North was founded in 1926 to outfit fishermen and workers in Iceland, but the brand’s shells and puffers have become permanent fixtures in fashion insider wardrobes – the most recent designs come courtesy of creative director Kei Toyoshima, who is also menswear designer at Louis Vuitton. Elsewhere, London talent Johanna Parv incorporates technical fabrics and fits in a way that’s wholly integral to the brand’s DNA – Parv’s waterproof ripstops are all meticulously tested prior to their runway debut.
Japanese performance-wear brand Goldwin, meanwhile, launched Goldwin 0 – an experimental offshoot – in 2022, which harnesses its storied history of innovation to create directional collections for both city and outdoor use. “We can say that significant attention has been drawn to waterproof shell jackets, equipped with optimal features for mountaineering, being incorporated into urban lifestyles,” explains merchandiser, Ryu Nakaoka, of spikes in popularity for its technical range, defined by “dramatic and sculptural silhouettes” and high-quality seam sealing, handled by in-house technicians with years of experience. “While this technology remains hidden from view, it is undoubtedly one of Goldwin’s defining features.”
Of course, there are the luxury fashion houses that have dabbled in rain wear that’s more centred on form than function. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons offer logo-stamped jackets in Prada’s water-repellent Re-Nylon as part of the brand’s mainline, but for spring/summer 2025 the brand staged the “most bonkers Prada show in some time,” as Nicole Phelps said in her Vogue review, featuring a silver sequin dress with a yellow windbreaker and an otherworldly straw visor.
Not only are there many waterproofs to choose from this season, there are many (many) ways to embrace it.
