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Puffy eyes were once a regular part of my morning routine. It happened all of a sudden. I would wake up with inflated dark circles and hooded eyes, seemingly out of nowhere.
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This is very common, say the experts, as the under-eye area is prone to fluid retention. It may also be on account of allergies, dehydration, leaving make-up on or as detailed by consultant ophthalmic and oculoplastic surgeon Dr Elizabeth Hawkes, “Alcohol, a poor night’s sleep, or stress can make your eyes look puffy in the morning.” While many of us can track the causes, the process for easing puffiness is not always so simple – so we consulted the experts.
The science of puffy eyes
Dr Hawkes explains, “The eyeballs sit in a bony socket called the orbit, which is cushioned with fat. This fat is held in place by a delicate structure called the orbital septum, which is paper-thin. Over time, the septum weakens, and the fat starts to bulge forward, causing puffiness or under-eye bags. In the lower lid, there are three fat pads: medial, central and lateral. These can prolapse forward when the septum weakens.” But while this happens due to biological ageing, there are other causes too – more on that below.
What causes puffy eyes?
“Puffy eyes are not one single diagnosis, but a symptom,” says ophthalmologist, oculoplastic and reconstructive surgeon Dr Rachna Murthy. “From simple fluid retention and allergies to rarer conditions such as blepharochalasis syndrome or thyroid eye disease, the ‘why’ matters before the ‘what cream’.” She flags that professional attention is required if puffiness is painful or bleeding, bags are hard or irregular, it is paired with a fever or double vision, or you notice a rapid change in eye prominence.
Otherwise, the process for soothing puffy eyes begins by determining lifestyle factors that may play into their formation. These may include salty food, alcohol consumption, hormonal shifts, airborne allergens, cosmetics or skincare that inflames the eyelids.
Dr Jennifer Doyle, a consultant oculoplastic surgeon, reveals that it could also just be a case of genetics. “Many people simply have weaker connective tissue in the lower lid, which makes the underlying fat pads more visible. As we age, collagen and elastin decline, the orbital septum weakens, and what looks like ‘puffiness’ is often a combination of fluid retention and natural anatomical change.”
What can you do to combat puffy eyes?
The first step in ridding your morning routine of puffy eyes is “address the basics”, says Dr Doyle, aka “good sleep, hydration, reducing salt and alcohol, and managing allergies.” She adds that in-clinic, the approach is to “treat persistent puffiness with lymphatic-stimulating treatments like radiofrequency or ultrasound, or polynucleotides to improve the quality of the supporting tissue.” Yet, providing there is not a more serious condition (periorbital dermatitis, blepharitis, thyroid eye disease, blepharochalasis), there are home remedies too.
Dr Murthy tells us “chilled eye masks or cool spoons briefly applied can constrict superficial vessels and calm fluid pooling,” but she stresses to apply “gentle pressure only” and to “never ice directly on skin.”
Pacifica
Chill Baby Cooling Cryo Globes
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: If your skin looks tired, puffy and lacking in glow, these cooling globes are designed to bring it back to life. Available in two sizes, the 100 per cent glass globes can be kept in the fridge and used to glide across skin without the need for any skincare to provide slip. As well as taking the heat out of skin, the gentle massage action boosts circulation to encourage better blood flow.
- Type: Glass globes
Beauty Pie
Depuffing Face & Eye Roller
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: While this is a great option if you want to cool down redness, tackle puffiness and boost lymphatic drainage (keep it in the fridge for that), another big plus about this cooling metal device is the impressive way it nixes tension. Work around the face, paying particular attention to areas of stress and feel how much lighter and tighter everything feels afterwards.
- Type: metal roller
Avoiding allergens that could lead to puffy eyes includes switching up your bedding for hypoallergenic alternatives (think: silk as it’s a natural fibre) or investing in a device complete with a HEPA filter. Dr Murthy shares that these options “can reduce recurrent periorbital swelling.”
As for skincare, Dr Hawkes believes “the best approach is to improve the quality of the skin. Look for products with peptides, collagen-boosting ingredients, and antioxidants to nourish the skin and enhance its appearance.” Dr Murthy also stresses the importance of removing make-up, especially waterproof mascara and “favour ophthalmologist-tested, fragrance-free formulas designed for the periocular zone.”
Bioderma
Sensibo H2O Micellar Water
- Why we love it: Even the most sensitive skin types can use this micellar cleansing water as it is wonderfully gentle yet impressively effective, sweeping away SPF, eye make-up, foundation and more. For best results, pair it with an ultra-soft cotton pad. Consultant dermatologist Dr Blair Murphy-Rose praises its paraben- and fragrance-free formula, which cleanses thoroughly without leaving behind any greasy residue. It’s also entirely non-comedogenic, making it a safe choice for even the most blemish-prone complexions. The experts swear by this formula. Celebrity make-up artist Andrew Denton says it’s “iconic for a reason, it’s super gentle on the skin”. He recommends it for eczema-prone skin, while make-up artist Lucy Burt reveals, “this dermatological skincare staple has been in my kit for the past 15 years.”
- Key ingredients: Water, cucumber fruit extract
- Type: Micellar water
- Who it’s for: Sensitive skin, combination skin, acne-prone skin
- Fragrance: No
Clinique
Clinique All About Eyes Serum De-Puffing Eye Massage 15ml
- Best eye cream for mature skin for on-the-go
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: If you spend hours every day staring at a screen, the skin around your eyes tends to feel tight, dry and tired. To mitigate that and refresh fatigued skin, this eye serum is loaded with calming antioxidants and brightening caffeine. The metal-tipped applicator feels extra soothing, providing an instant wake up call.
- Ingredients: caffeine, antioxidants, botanical extracts
- Size: 15ml
The product recommendations
Orveda
Eye Unveiler Cream
Why it’s Vogue-approved: The ultra-hydrating and nourishing sterols, fatty acids and ceramide-rich formula is just the start of why this eye cream is beloved – although the rejuvenating impact of the trio cannot be understated. Consultant ophthalmic and oculoplastic surgeon Dr Elizabeth Hawkes is a fan of the Eye Unveiler Cream for puffy eyes as it “Comes with a unique applicator for gentle massage to help drain fluid retention.”
La Prairie
Skin Caviar Luxe Eye Cream
Why it’s Vogue-approved: Every application of the La Prairie Skin Caviar Luxe Eye Cream is a luxury experience, from the packaging to the spoon to the firming and smoothing cream within. “This product contains caviar, a powerful antioxidant that hydrates and nourishes the skin,” explains Dr Hawkes, which is why the consultant ophthalmic and oculoplastic surgeon recommends it for improving skin quality and thus reducing puffiness around the eyes.
Noble Panacea
The Exceptional Eye Lift Concentrate
Why it’s Vogue-approved: “Use once a week on the upper and lower eyelids to reduce puffiness,” says Dr Hawkes, who includes this formula in her edit of the best eye creams for combating puffiness. Noble Panacea, a brand beloved by Vogue’s beauty and wellness director Jessica Diner, calls on its trademarked OSMV technology that slowly releases the active ingredients to maximise results. These ingredients include retinal, octapeptides and a specialised bio-complex, all of which combine to minimise the appearance of fine lines around the eyes, firming and smoothing.
Elemis
Pro-Collagen Eye Revive Mask
Why it’s Vogue-approved: A bestselling and beloved eye mask, the consultant ophthalmic and oculoplastic surgeon Dr Hawkes recommends to “Use it once a week for rejuvenation.” The formula combines an army of plumping ingredients with hyaluronic acid taking a starring role. It has a gel texture that feels immediately cooling on the skin, and it is so soothing on puffy eyes.
Opatra Dermi Eye Device
Why it’s Vogue-approved: When topical creams are just not cutting it, you may want to call on big gun tools, and the Opatra Dermi Eye Device was created with puffiness-reducing in mind. Applied onto the delicate eye area – which is 10 times thinner than the rest of the face and requires gentle touches – the device has a vibrating function to encourage blood circulation, better the absorption of the products to follow and boost skin cell regeneration. Dr Hawkes describes it simply as an “at-home device that works well for reducing puffiness.”
Alastin Restorative Eye Complex
Why it’s Vogue-approved: “For day-to-day management, look for ingredients that support the lymphatics and strengthen the skin barrier,” advises consultant oculoplastic surgeon Dr Jennifer Doyle. “I recommend Alastin Restorative Eye Complex, which uses TriHex Technology to stimulate collagen and elastin while helping clear damaged proteins – it’s excellent for swelling and crepey texture. Caffeine-based serums can help temporarily de-puff, and gentle retinoids or peptides strengthen the tissue over time. But no topical can correct true fat prolapse, so it’s important to have a proper assessment if the issue is persistent.”
Important note
Dr Murthy shares this crucial information: “For persistent, cosmetically troubling upper or lower eyelid bags that do not shift with lifestyle, skincare or allergy control, I recommend a detailed oculoplastic consultation to map out anatomy, review systemic contributors and discuss options ranging from energy-based tightening and filler correction to bespoke surgical blepharoplasty.”
Meet the experts
- Dr Elizabeth Hawkes (MBBS BSc FRCOphth) is an award-winning consultant ophthalmic and oculoplastic surgeon and aesthetic doctor
- Dr Jennifer Doyle is a consultant oculoplastic surgeon
- Dr Rachna Murthy, BSc (Hons) MB BS FRCOphth, is the co-founder of FaceRestoration, an ophthalmologist, oculoplastic and reconstructive surgeon and medical aesthetic practitioner