Fragrance has become somewhat of a dirty word in the skincare industry. Once the litmus test of luxury, it has been relegated from the modern beauty lexicon, associated with irritation, allergy flare-ups and heavy-handed floral assaults. But is scent really the villain that it is made out to be? And should we all be using fragrance-free skincare instead?
“Fragrance is one of the more common causes of irritation in cosmetics, but it’s not inherently problematic”, Dr Clare Kiely, Consultant Dermatologist & Co-Founder of The Skin Diary, explains. “Certain compounds, such as limonene, linalool, geraniol, citral, and eugenol, are classified as potential allergens in the EU and must be listed individually on the ingredients list if present above very low thresholds. These ingredients are often referred to as “common culprits,” not because they are more harmful than others, but because they are used frequently and have therefore been more widely associated with sensitisation”.
Reactive and sensitive skin types – and those with an aversion to cloying notes of rose (a surprisingly divisive ingredient) – may find that fragrance-free formulations are better suited in their AM and PM rituals.
Riding the wave of the prevailing “clean” beauty trend – an unregulated term, may we add – these products relegate unnecessary perfume with a priority on performance. This extends to moisturisers, cleansers and serums that are hypoallergenic, dermatologist-approved and distinctly scentless.
In the past, these were not the most appealing formulas. They were often thick and laborious and verging on medicinal. Packaging was considered an after thought, too, with the SKUs sticking out like a sore thumb in the sea of Gen-Z-approved pink and mint green that dominated the beauty shelves. For those with conditions like eczema, rosacea, acne or psoriasis, it was a case of substance over style.
But that’s no longer accurate, as La Roche-Posay and K-Beauty heroes Purito and Beauty of Joseon prove that there can still be sensorial elements, while remaining neutral on the notes.
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These labels, along with The Ordinary and The INKEY List, are leading the charge and reflect a wider shift in the beauty industry, with a move away from filler and fluff. Greater consumer awareness of ingredient lists has resulted in the pairing back of unnecessary components, and single-ingredient spotlights reign supreme – especially when supported by science. This leaves no room for superfluous scent.
The desire for fragrance-free skincare has taken an unusual turn on TikTok (where else?). Baby brands like Aquaphor and Mustela are being used by adults, who are impressed by their gentle, fragrance-free formulations.
But it is not just perfume that you should consider when filling your bathroom cabinet. Whether you have reactive skin, allergies, an opposition to aroma or want to tap into “clean” beauty, be on the lookout for ingredients like ceramides, niacinamide and glycerin to nourish, without exacerbating inflammation.
When you see these terms mentioned in product descriptions, it is important to note that they are not interchangeable. Dr Clare Kiely reveals, “It’s a common misconception that “unscented” means the same as “fragrance-free”, but they’re actually quite different”.
She breaks it down: “Fragrance free means no fragrance ingredients (whether natural or synthetic) have been added to the product. This is the best option for people with sensitive skin or known fragrance allergies.” On the other hand, “Unscented refers to products that have no noticeable smell, but may still include masking agents or low levels of fragrance to cover the natural scent of base ingredients. So if you’re trying to avoid fragrance entirely, it’s important to look for products labelled fragrance free rather than just unscented”.
According to the dermatologist, this is down to personal preference. Dr Kiely says, “Fragrance can improve enjoyment and adherence to skincare routines as, for many, the sensory experience of skincare is part of its appeal. It has even been shown to enhance feelings of wellbeing. While some people with underlying skin sensitivities may react to fragrance, the vast majority tolerate it without issue when used at low concentrations”.
She adds, “It’s also important to understand that many base ingredients in fragrance-free products can still carry their own natural scent”.
“The regulations around cosmetic safety are much stricter than I think people realise”, Dr Kiely stresses. “In the UK and EU every product must be signed off by a qualified toxicologist, who reviews each ingredient, including fragrance, for safety and compliance. Fragrances are regulated under IFRA (International Fragrance Association) standards, which set strict limits on usage levels and combinations to ensure they are completely safe”. So, she concludes, “If you do not have a fragrance allergy or sensitivity, fragrance in skincare is safe and enjoyable”.
Shop Vogue’s edit of the best fragrance-free skincare below
Skin Rocks The Cream Cleanser Fragrance Free
Caroline Hirons has formulated a nourishing, luxurious first-step product. The skin expert’s Skin Rocks The Cream Cleanser nourishes and supports the skin barrier, while effectively removing dirt and grime from the day, including stubborn makeup. I used it down to the very last drop.
The rich texture glides onto the skin, imparting the benefits of eight amino acids, squalane and jojoba seed oil, all of which combine to boost moisture. While the fragranced iteration has a very light aroma that is unlikely to trigger inflammation, the fragrance-free version may be better suited to those with sensitivities – so much so that you can use it to dissolve mascara and eyeshadow without tearing up. You only need a small amount, too, so it is very long-lasting.
Purito Wonder Releaf Centella Serum Unscented
The hero ingredient in Purito’s Wonder Releaf Centella Serum is centella asiatica, a component that those prone to sensitivities should get familiar with. It is renowned for its soothing, healing and hydrating properties and should be very well tolerated by all skin types.
This serum by the buzzy K-beauty label Purito it is set alongside ceramides to take nourishment to the next level and combat the skin-stressing impact of external aggressors. The formula is lightweight and fragrance-free. Add to your routine after cleansing and before moisturiser.
CeraVe Moisturising Lotion for Dry to Very Dry Skin
Dermatologist-led skincare label CeraVe is a drugstore favourite, and not just because of the affordable price tag. The experts behind the brand have created formulas to suit all skin types – even those with irritation-prone complexions. This is made possible by the stripping back of unnecessary elements, retaining only nourishing ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides, two powerhouses you’ll find within the moisturising lotion.
Intensely hydrating, it was created to impart moisture – and ensure it lasts. It harnesses the CeraVe MVE delivery technology to support the barrier long after application. The texture is lightweight, especially when compared with the brand’s rich moisturiser, but I find it is still better suited to the colder months. It leaves skin glowing.
Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water
As the second step in our skincare routines, essences have become the formulas of choice for better hydration. I found that toner was far too drying for my dehydrated skin, and so followed in the footsteps of Korean skincare practices by opting for the water-based alternative.
Beauty of Joseon is a brand you’ll spot all over your TikTok feed for its viral Relief Sun Rice + Probiotics SPF50+ formula, but there are many more SKUs to know – the Ginseng Essence Water, for one. It is made up predominantly of ginseng water, selected for its hydration and inflammation-fighting properties. The beauty of this product is its multitasking nature; you can use it AM or PM to boost hydration as part of the skincare routine or pop it on your desk for a quick spritz throughout the day.
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Dermallergo Soothing Cream for Sensitive Skin
The Toleriane collection from La Roche-Posay is a saviour for sensitive skin. It is made up of micellar water, night cream, eye cream and more to cover every step with formulas composed of calming ingredients that have been clinically proven to hydrate without irritation.
One stand-out in the range is the Dermallergo Soothing Cream. I keep this product in my skincare arsenal for when I have overdone it on the actives or incorporated a new formula that has left my skin stressed out. It acts as an instantly soothing moisturiser with the brand’s ultra-hydrating signature thermal water, supercharged with probiotic-derived fractions to support the skin barrier and neurosenine to counteract redness.
Aveeno Face CALM+RESTORE Oat Gel Moisturiser
Underrated for its skincare, Aveeno is likely already part of your bodycare routine. The bestselling Daily Moisturising Lotion is always on hand when my limbs are parched for its use of reparative prebiotic oat, which so happens to also be the star ingredient in the facial moisturiser, too.
This sensitive skin favourite is paired with calming feverfew that is rich in antioxidants to support the skin, and the combination hits all the checkpoints – fragrance-free, hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic and dermatologist tested.
The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5
When it comes to boosting your skincare with hydration heroes, hyaluronic-based formulas should be your first port of call. The Ordinary’s offering is a bestseller and deserves its acclaim. The brand has stripped back the serum to simply the main ingredient, with nourishing ceramides and pro-vitamin B5 to lock in the moisture levels throughout the day.
There are as many as five different types of hyaluronic acid, and the lack of any filler or unwanted extras means that all skin types can maximise its benefits.
Eucerin Aquaphor Soothing Skin Balm
Eucerin’s Aquaphor Soothing Skin Balm is often spotted in baby changing bags – a testament to the gentleness of its formula. It was designed to provide intense hydration to the driest skin, forgoing water in favour of actives like glycerin and panthenol for more enduring moisture boosting.
These ingredients were selected for their ability to accelerate the repair process. You can apply it anywhere – be it as a hand cream, on the feet, at your elbows or anywhere that it is required – and it forms an occlusive protective barrier. The balm is free from fragrance, preservatives and has been both clinically and dermatologically proven.