Skincare Sunday

Is Face Taping Worth Your Time? A Celebrity Facialist And 2 Derms Weigh In

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Courtesy of Guendalina Gennari.

It’s time for bed: you’ve brushed your teeth, cleansed your skin, applied a hydrating serum and moisturised. But wait… did you forget to tape? According to celebrity facialist Guendalina Gennari – who works with everyone from Anne Hathaway to Rosie Huntington-Whiteley – face taping is your ticket to fine line- and wrinkle-free skin.

“I’ve been using tape for a while to treat my nasolabial and forehead lines,” she revealed on Instagram. “Being a side-sleeper, I used to wake up with deep lines on the left side of my face and face taping is helping me [with it].”

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Naturally, this piqued my interest. You don’t need me to tell you that much of the skincare industry is devoted to finding ways in which to “eliminate” (their words, not mine) fine lines and wrinkles – not to mention the fact that Google searches for “how to get rid of fine lines” have shot up by 1,000 per cent in the last 30 days alone.

Despite the noticeable (and welcome) upswing in age positivity in the culture, many of us still want to find ways to make our skin appear as fresh and youthful as possible – and that’s absolutely fine.

What is face taping?

A technique pioneered by chiropractor Dr Kenzo Kase in Japan in the ’70s, tape was originally deployed to help support the body’s muscles following injury and to alleviate pain – in some cases, it was used to increase the contraction of the muscle, while in others it was used to decrease muscle stimulation to relax the area. This method also helped to enhance blood flow.

How does face taping help to reduce fine lines?

A dermatologist would advise incorporating some form of retinoid into your routine to boost collagen production, soften fine lines and plump up the skin – or trying an in-clinic treatment such as laser – and so face taping is regarded as an alternative approach. “If used regularly, it can help prevent or soften fine lines – as we age, our muscles shorten, which creates creases in the skin, but tape helps maintain the muscle structure,” says Gennari. “It’s an especially good tool for those who sleep on their side.”

It’s worth noting that if you have deep lines and wrinkles, it won’t magically erase them, but it can be a great preventative technique for those starting to see more uneven texture due to collagen degradation.

Are there any side effects to face taping?

“Face taping does carry risks, particularly to the skin barrier,” consultant dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips explains. The tape’s adhesive, he says, can cause:

  • Irritation
  • Redness
  • Superficial skin injury, in cases when the tape has been repeatedly applied and removed

For these reasons, he says, face taping is best avoided on sensitive or delicate areas of the face – including the eye area. “Anyone with active skin conditions, such as eczema, dermatitis or rosacea, is more likely to experience irritation, so taping should not be used over any affected area.”

Face taping can also trap sweat, oil and bacteria, which may increase the likelihood of breakouts in acne-prone skin – not what you want happening as you sleep. “Although taping is often marketed as a way to relax facial muscles, it doesn’t reliably do so. In some cases, the underlying muscles may actually work against the resistance of the tape, which is unlikely to provide any long-term benefit,” he concludes.

Can face taping encourage lymphatic drainage?

Dr Phillips takes a dim view of face taping as an effective lymphatic drainage (read, de-puffing) aid. In his words: “The evidence is very limited.”

“The lymphatic system sits deeper than the surface layers of the skin, so applying tape can’t meaningfully stimulate lymphatic flow,” he continues. “At most, the tape may create a slight lifting effect that temporarily reduces fluid pooling, but this is minimal and not comparable to proper lymphatic drainage techniques.”

Effective lymphatic drainage, on the other hand, requires gentle, directional massage that follows the natural path and position of the lymphatic vessels. “Tape cannot replicate this process and, if applied with too much tension, can irritate the skin or even worsen swelling.”

How to apply the tape

As well as following Gennari’s lead on Instagram, it’s key to place tape so that it “follows the lymphatic system and muscle structure”. You’ll find some useful diagrams on Google (try typing “face lymphatic system” into the search bar), but some key areas are on the nasolabial folds, the outer corners of the eyes, around the cheekbones and on both sides of the forehead. “It’s very important not to stretch the tape, as it can stress the muscles and do more damage than good,” she adds.

What’s the best tape?

Whether you have sensitive skin or not, the thought of applying tape to your face is not especially appealing. The key to making it comfortable is to ensure you use kinesiology tape for children or for those with sensitive skin. “The glue is gentler and the cotton more breathable,” says Gennari. “I have very sensitive skin. I get mine from Amazon or from specific websites that sell medical tape.” New hack: unlocked.

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Sporttape Kinesiology Tape

Face taping vs Botox and injectables

“Face taping sits in a completely different league to anything we would consider clinically effective,” says aesthetic doctor and founder of the eponymous clinic Dr David Jack. “Injectables such as neuromodulators (ie, Botox) soften wrinkles by interrupting the muscle contraction that causes them. Energy-based devices (like the Ziip, NuFace and Sculpta), stimulate real collagen remodelling, and advanced cosmeceutical creams influence cellular behaviour over time. Taping does none of this. At best, it acts as a temporary splint that discourages certain movements for a few hours and may give the illusion of smoother skin while it is physically holding the tissue in place. Once the tape is removed, so is the effect.”

For Dr Jack, face taping can be a useful visual and behavioural reminder not to frown while you’re “answering late-night emails”, but it won’t change anything in a biological sense.

Dr Phillips’s advice is similarly sage. “A more reliable approach to tackling fine lines and wrinkles combines topical skincare, daily SPF, injectables and in-clinic devices. Preventing premature ageing starts with using SPF regularly to protect against UV-related collagen breakdown. Topical products containing retinoids, peptides and antioxidants support collagen, improve skin texture and help maintain a healthy barrier.”

A final word on face taping

Taking Gennari, Dr Jack and Dr Phillips’s advice into account, face taping seems more like a natural, temporary alternative, than a long-term solution. If you try it and find that it works for you – temporarily softening lines and helping assuage any facial movement during rest – then proceed with caution. If you’re looking for observable, lasting change, neuromodulators, energy-based devices (such as nanocurrent and microcurrent), and a targeted skincare routine will be your best port of call.