Inflammation is one of the body’s key defence mechanisms and it’s triggered when the immune system detects a harmful intruder – be it irritant, allergens (such as fragrance or pollen), pathogens (like bacteria or viruses), or a foreign object – and attacks it to keep us healthy and well. In our skin, this process can create swelling, redness, rashes, itchiness and damage to the skin barrier.
What does inflammation do to the skin?
While a small amount of inflammation is essential for protecting us in everyday life, when it becomes persistent or chronic, skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis, acne and rosacea can occur, as well as premature ageing.
“Systemic inflammation is a chronic, low-grade inflammatory state that affects the entire body. It is one of the key drivers of skin ageing and imbalance,” says Dr Barbara Sturm, founder of her eponymous skincare brand. “It’s the root cause of many common skin concerns because it accelerates the breakdown of collagen, disrupts the skin barrier and triggers immune responses, leading to redness, sensitivity, breakouts, dullness and fine lines.” The goal with skincare, she says, is always to calm and strengthen the skin, rather than subject it to unnecessary stress, so avoid fragrances, sulphates and other potentially irritating ingredients if they affect you.
Calming inflammation is really an inside-out process, incorporating lifestyle habits – such as diet, stress management, sleep and movement – and effective skincare to restore balance, strengthen resilience and support long-term skin health. So passionate is Dr Sturm about these principles that she recently collaborated with renowned Italian wellness destination (and a favourite of Oprah’s), Palazzo Fiuggi, and poured her know-how into an exclusive anti-inflammatory facial.
While we can’t all hot foot it over to Italy to experience it, what we can do is incorporate some of the ingredients and technology used within our own facial at home.
Below, find some of the best skincare to help with inflammation, including exosomes, antioxidants and LED light therapy that Dr Sturm swears by for beautiful, healthy skin year round.
The best anti-inflammatory skincare
If your skin is particularly angry and/or inflamed, the best thing to do is to reduce the amount of formulas you’re using. Keep your routine as simple as possible, with a gentle cleanser, ceramide-rich moisturiser and mineral SPF until your skin has calmed down a bit.
After that, there are some key ingredients to incorporate in your daily routine:
“Antioxidants like vitamin C are crucial to help neutralise free radicals,” says Dr Sturm. Free radical damage occurs when our cells come into contact with environmental aggressors, such as airborne pollution, UV rays, poor diet and smoke – utilising the right skincare to neutralise them can reduce inflammation. Alongside vitamin C, other antioxidant ingredients to look out for include vitamin E, niacinamide, green tea extract, resveratrol and purslane.
Maintaining a healthy, resilient skin barrier is crucial — it serves as your first line of defence against external inflammatory aggressors. When the barrier is compromised or weakened, irritants can penetrate more easily, exacerbating skin issues. Hyaluronic acid plays an important role here too, delivering deep hydration and helping to reinforce the skin’s natural barrier.
A hot new ingredient in the skincare world, exosomes are “natural cellular messengers that are amazing at stimulating regeneration, repairing damaged cells and enhancing skin communication to promote healthier, more resilient skin,” says Dr Sturm. Find it in these formulas:
Good news for those who are obsessed with their LED light masks – red and infrared light is really good for taking down inflammation and helping the skin heal. “I regularly use red light therapy; it’s one of the most effective, non-invasive ways to support collagen production, cellular function and overall skin regeneration,” she says. Make sure you use your LED light therapy mask consistently – three to four times a week – for noticeable results.
CurrentBody
Skin Series 2 LED Light Therapy Mask
Why it’s Vogue-approved:
Clinically proven to reduce wrinkles by an impressive 35 per cent in just four weeks, CurrentBody’s LED Mask is also a hit with a number of celebrities. With red and near-infrared, it won’t target acne-prone skin (as it doesn’t offer blue light), but it is brilliant for general luminosity, collagen boosting and skin smoothing. And to add to that? It’s made from patented flexible silicone, which isn’t just comfortable, but it also ensures light covers every area of the face. It’s a yes from us. “I love using this mask. Not only do I see genuine results with better clarity and improved bounce when I use it regularly, but it’s comfortable to wear and simple to activate. A great option if you’re new to LED.” – Vogue contributing editor, Georgia Day.
This device also ranks high on dermatologist Dr Nicole Ruth’s list. “I find CurrentBody’s face mask sits nicely on the curvatures of your face, allowing even coverage on the skin surface without any gaps,” she says.
- Key specs:
- Light Modes: Red (633nm), near infra red (830nm), deep near infra red (1072nm)
- Mask Type: Flexible
- Device type: Face mask
- Target area: Face
- Treatment Time: 10 minutes
- Best for: The mask has noticeable anti-ageing effects, including improved skin texture and firmness.
- Wireless: Yes
- Good to know: Emily in Paris actress Lily Collins is a fan of this mask. With her virtually poreless skin, that’s good enough validation for us.
Shark
CryoGlow Under-Eye Cooling and LED Anti-Ageing and Blemish Repair Mask
Why it’s Vogue-approved:
Shark’s CryoGlow LED face mask is all over social media right now for good reason. With 480 LED lights and four targeted treatment modes (including Better Ageing, Blemish Repair, Skin Sustain and Under-Eye Cooling), it’s a multitasking wonder that has been clinically proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, boost luminosity and improve blemishes and skin roughness. All that while also helping to cool and depuff the eye area, which is an absolute dream the morning after the night before.
Key specs:
- Light Modes: Red (630nm) and blue (415nm) light, and near infrared (830nm)
- Mask Type: Rigid
- Treatment Time: Up to 8 minutes
- Wireless: Yes
Beyond eating a healthy, balanced diet – prioritising anti-inflammatory foods and avoiding those which are ultra-processed – supplements can help too. Adaptogenic herbs, such as ashwagandha and turmeric, help the body adapt to stressors, so try and incorporate them where possible.
